Seamwork Astoria in Atelier Brunette Twinkle Rose French Terry from Faberwood

Seamwork // Astoria

Well, it’s only bloomin’ March already! And at the start of the third month, allow me to introduce to you the third make from my 2017 Make Nine list; a Seamwork Astoria. As I mentioned in my February sewing plans vlog, I’d originally opted for the Sewaholic Fraser sweatshirt but I swapped to the Astoria as I’d had it in my stash for a while, it requires less fabric and I really liked the look of it.

The beautiful Atelier Brunette Twinkle Rose French Terry fabric I used sold out very quickly from pretty much every UK shop stocking it. If I hadn’t seen it on the Atelier Brunette website prior to release I would’ve missed out as well. Thankfully, I snuck in an order of 1m from Faberwood.com. And let’s just take a moment to swoon over the beautiful packaging! Some fabric shops may still have the navy version Twinkle Rose.

Atelier Brunette Twinkle Rose French Terry from Faberwood Atelier Brunette Twinkle Rose French Terry from Faberwood

Picture time! Don’t look too closely at my topstitching now will ya…?

Seamwork Astoria in Atelier Brunette Twinkle Rose French Terry from Faberwood Seamwork Astoria in Atelier Brunette Twinkle Rose French Terry from Faberwood Seamwork Astoria in Atelier Brunette Twinkle Rose French Terry from Faberwood Seamwork Astoria in Atelier Brunette Twinkle Rose French Terry from Faberwood Seamwork Astoria in Atelier Brunette Twinkle Rose French Terry from Faberwood Seamwork Astoria in Atelier Brunette Twinkle Rose French Terry from Faberwood Seamwork Astoria in Atelier Brunette Twinkle Rose French Terry from Faberwood Seamwork Astoria in Atelier Brunette Twinkle Rose French Terry from Faberwood Seamwork Astoria in Atelier Brunette Twinkle Rose French Terry from Faberwood

Seamwork AstoriaThe first thing I did for this was to make a wearable toile and not cut straight into this fabulous fabric! I’ve learnt that lesson for sure. I used some mint green scuba/jacquard jersey from Fabric Land in my stash, which you may have seen in my January makes vlog.

The first version went well and I really liked the vintage style so went straight onto the ‘real thing’.

Fabric and Supplies

Atelier Brunette Twinkle Rose French Terry ~£22 per metre

Sizing and cutting
  • Mint green: size S, three quarter length sleeves (version 1)
  • Twinkle Rose: size S, long sleeves (version 2)
  • Added 2″ to the bodice for both
Fitting and alterations

In addition to the above alterations before cutting, I made the following adjustments after sewing:

Mint green

  • Tightened the sleeves by 3/4″ (grading from no adjustment at the underarm)
  • Reduce the length of the neckband by 1/2″

Twinkle Rose

  • Tightened sleeves by 5/8″ (grading from no adjustment at the underarm)
  • Reduced the neckband further, to a length of 24″ (85-90% the length of the neckline)
Pattern instructions

The instructions for me were very straightforward.

Finishing

For both versions, I used my overlocker for most of it, the only exception being sewing the neckband on first before overlocking, so I could be as accurate as possible. I used a twin needle to finish the neckband and cuffs, using a white thread as I didn’t have the right colour pink. Perhaps a nice gold would’ve worked well too?

Verdict

The sleeves are quite long but I actually really like this now. I am a little disappointed with how much the neckband sits up. It appears the same on both version and it’s not stretched, it just wants to stand up like that. Not entirely sure why this is, perhaps the seams of the neckband-join should be slanted? Or the length of the neckband needs to be smaller still? It means my hair gets a little swallowed by the neckband and for me, it looks a little less professional.

Full disclosure: I really loved the mint green version and was then a little underwhelmed by the Twinkle Rose version but I think there was for a couple of reasons: 1. I have a pale complexion and the hue of the Twinkle Rose fabric was an unusual one for me to wear; 2. to begin with, I wasn’t sure what to pair it with. But when I matched it with these maroon jeans, it was a match made in heaven and I adore wearing the combo!

Working on…

I’ve not sewn anything yet in March but will soon start on my fourth 2017MakeNine item, a Deer and Doe Cardamome dress and a few other things. And this weekend should be prime vlog filming!

Did you manage to get hold of some Atelier Brunette French Terry fabric? What will/would you make with it?

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8 thoughts on “Seamwork // Astoria

  1. I was one of those who lost out on this gorgeous fabric! As soon as I noticed it on someone’s blog I went on the hunt and every single fabric seller online who had carried was out. Gorgeous sweat shirt and all from 1 metre of this beautiful knit. Great job too – I love the fit – casual but not at all baggy!

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  2. Don’t be underwhelmed! It looks completely fantastic, and I was actually thinking the higher stand-upy neckband was a great alteration 😉 I made an Astoria with my AB terry too, super snuggly 🙂

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  3. It looks lovely on you! It’s such gorgeous fabric isn’t it?! After seeing you post about it I splashed out & bought it in the pink and the navy but haven’t sewed either up yet – soon! I think your neckline looks intentional but yes, I think you’re right, the neckband piece is too long if it’s sticking up like that, or maybe it’s to do with the stretch of the fabric. You write great detailed reviews, I always forget to include all the information about alterations I’ve made!

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  4. It looks great on you Jen, one of the reasons we sew is because we can try things that we wouldn’t try on RTW and that colour looks fab paired with your jeans. Because the neckband is even all the way around it looks like the design so don’t be underwhelmed. I really like the mint green one from your vlog too, great to have a wearable toile. 😊

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  5. It is nearly always difficult to make the neckband lie flat when it is made from the same knit as the garment, unless it is very stretchy. I saw a great tip on a Youtube clip the other day (have not tried it myself yet) and that was to cut the neckband on the bias to give it more stretch! Maybe worth a try?
    By the way, LOVE your v-logs!

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  6. Love that Twinkle Rose fabric! The neckline looks more like a design feature than an accident – though I get you about the “hair swallowing” thing though. I’ve had many a top which does that to me. Ponytail day when you wear it?! 😉

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