Seamwork // Astoria

Well, it’s only bloomin’ March already! And at the start of the third month, allow me to introduce to you the third make from my 2017 Make Nine list; a Seamwork Astoria. As I mentioned in my February sewing plans vlog, I’d originally opted for the Sewaholic Fraser sweatshirt but I swapped to the Astoria as I’d had it in my stash for a while, it requires less fabric and I really liked the look of it.

The beautiful Atelier Brunette Twinkle Rose French Terry fabric I used sold out very quickly from pretty much every UK shop stocking it. If I hadn’t seen it on the Atelier Brunette website prior to release I would’ve missed out as well. Thankfully, I snuck in an order of 1m from Faberwood.com. And let’s just take a moment to swoon over the beautiful packaging! Some fabric shops may still have the navy version Twinkle Rose.

Picture time! Don’t look too closely at my topstitching now will ya…?

The first thing I did for this was to make a wearable toile and not cut straight into this fabulous fabric! I’ve learnt that lesson for sure. I used some mint green scuba/jacquard jersey from Fabric Land in my stash, which you may have seen in my January makes vlog.

The first version went well and I really liked the vintage style so went straight onto the ‘real thing’.

Fabric and Supplies

Atelier Brunette Twinkle Rose French Terry ~£22 per metre

Sizing and cutting

• Mint green: size S, three quarter length sleeves (version 1)
• Twinkle Rose: size S, long sleeves (version 2)
• Added 2″ to the bodice for both

Fitting and alterations

In addition to the above alterations before cutting, I made the following adjustments after sewing:

Mint green

• Tightened the sleeves by 3/4″ (grading from no adjustment at the underarm)
• Reduce the length of the neckband by 1/2″

Twinkle Rose

• Tightened sleeves by 5/8″ (grading from no adjustment at the underarm)
• Reduced the neckband further, to a length of 24″ (85-90% the length of the neckline)

Pattern instructions

The instructions for me were very straightforward.

Finishing

For both versions, I used my overlocker for most of it, the only exception being sewing the neckband on first before overlocking, so I could be as accurate as possible. I used a twin needle to finish the neckband and cuffs, using a white thread as I didn’t have the right colour pink. Perhaps a nice gold would’ve worked well too?

Verdict

The sleeves are quite long but I actually really like this now. I am a little disappointed with how much the neckband sits up. It appears the same on both version and it’s not stretched, it just wants to stand up like that. Not entirely sure why this is, perhaps the seams of the neckband-join should be slanted? Or the length of the neckband needs to be smaller still? It means my hair gets a little swallowed by the neckband and for me, it looks a little less professional.

Full disclosure: I really loved the mint green version and was then a little underwhelmed by the Twinkle Rose version but I think there was for a couple of reasons: 1. I have a pale complexion and the hue of the Twinkle Rose fabric was an unusual one for me to wear; 2. to begin with, I wasn’t sure what to pair it with. But when I matched it with these maroon jeans, it was a match made in heaven and I adore wearing the combo!

Working on…

I’ve not sewn anything yet in March but will soon start on my fourth 2017MakeNine item, a Deer and Doe Cardamome dress and a few other things. And this weekend should be prime vlog filming!

Did you manage to get hold of some Atelier Brunette French Terry fabric? What will/would you make with it?